Holidays in Beaufort

We decided to take a long weekend trip out to Beaufort to visit Ryana, talk with the boat yard about needed work and play tourist for the weekend. As usual our trips to the East Coast are on redeyes so we arrived a bit tired, got our rental car in New Bern and drove the hour drive to Beaufort, stopping for Mexican food along the way.

We stayed at the Beaufort Inn which is nice enough and is walking distance to town for shopping and eating. We got an early check in and managed a decent nap before exploring. We ventured out looking at all the historic homes all decorated for the holidays, that we’ll get to see more of later when we take part in the Candlelight tour.

Our first stop of interest was the Old Burying Ground that dates back to the 1730’s, you pick up a brochure and follow a self lead itinerary discussing dead people of interest. A bit strange, I wonder if all the other folks that aren’t mentioned in the brochure are a bit jealous of never getting attention. Anyway we saw the guy that was lost at sea only to return to have his wife remarried to another man, many war heros from both Revolutionary and Civil wars and the girl buried in a rum barrel. We also got to hear about all of the town’s hauntings from the guy that leads the ghost walks, he just happened to be strolling the cemetery with his wife. He had a few good stories, enough to make the hair on the back of my neck stand on end and for Diana not to want to walk the town at night. That was about it for Thursday besides an early dinner.

Friday was our day to play tourist, no agenda. After breakfast at the Beaufort Inn we wandered town in a mild drizzle where all the shops were closing out all their merchandise for the 2013 year. It seams most shops close in January and completely reset their inventory, not sure I’ve seen this before, but it’s the low season and it’s always nice to have the luxury of a reset. The thing I really did not want to miss was the Beaufort Maritime Museum. . . Blackbeard!!!! Not sure if you are familiar but it is thought that Blackbeard scuttled his flagship the “Queen Anne’s Revenge” just outside of the Beaufort channel, and the museum has some great exhibits showing the artifacts that have been recovered from the wreck site; how awesome is that? We had dinner at the Blue Moon Bistro which was great, both service and food. We stopped by the Backstreet Pub, the beer was good and it was as musty as ever.

On Saturday we were supposed to meet up with a guy from Jarrett Bay to take him out to hear the squeaks on Ryana, but he was too busy working on another job so we took her out on our own since we had nothing else on our agenda. Well it’s said that there are two kinds of sailors, those that have run aground and those that are liars, I’m not a liar . . . won’t get into the details, but the major lesson learned is to have both captain and admiral review charts prior to weighing anchor and both agree on a course. No harm no foul, we backed off with no issue. Made the bascle bridge and headed out the inlet for about 5 miles then returned. We had tickets to the Candlelight Tour which started at 5 so really wanted to get back. I was able to sweet talk the bridge operator to open 2 minutes late so we didn’t have to wait another 30 minutes for another opening. We cruised back to Jarrett Bay with time to spare for a shower before the tour was to begin.

The Candlelight Tour is essentially an open house of many of the historic homes and inns in Beaufort. All this is quite interesting to us being on the West Coast where historic is anything over 75 year old. Many of these building date back to the early 18th century. All the hosts and hostess were very friendly and were quick to answer any questions around the structures themselves, past owners and general history of the town. It was a pretty cool evening.

Sunday we finally got to meet our project manager Steven at Jarrett Bay. Seems like a really nice guy and went over the warranty items we’d like them to repair along with the modifications we want to make before heading out on our trip; raising the davits, upgrade the counter, add a new through hull for the watermaker, increase the life lines so Stanley can’t fall out and a few others. Jarrett Bay seems like a great yard, but may be a bit too expensive to have them execute the changes we want. No big deal as we can decide later to do it ourselves or have another yard do it.

Back home to California bid a farewell to Ryana and we’ll see her again in a few months.

 

To Beaufort

Sunday Sept 9

Sunday morning was a bit hectic with last minute shopping and preparations.   The girls took the car to get a few things that were forgotten on the provisioning list, mostly Jack’s ham.   Once they returned the rental car was returned to the airport.  The next couple hours were spent storing provisions, fueling up and eating ice cream.  We cleared the 17th street bridge at 1:00pm and headed into the North Atlantic.

The first few hours couldn’t have been better, we had W to WSW winds around 14 to 18 knots with the boat speed bouncing between 9.5 to 10.5 overground, it truly was beautiful sailing for the first part of the afternoon.  Right after nightfall things changed, the wind began shifting to more of a WNW direction and squalls began to appear on the horizon.   For about 3 hours we continued to change direction avoiding the squalls that were lighting up the sky all around us, didn’t see too many lightning strikes hit the surface, but still made your butt pucker.  Diana was a bit oblivious to this as she was having trouble establishing her sea legs and ended up doing a bit of chumming off the back.  Since we did get Jack up for some support we let him sleep in until 3 am for his watch duties.

Monday Sept 10

The wind continued to clock further north forcing a course further East than we really wanted.  The seas were not overly large but quite steep causing regular pounding from the bridge deck as we beat into them.  Fairly uneventful, not overly comfortable day at sea.  Saw a few dolphins and sharks, had a great dinner and Diana started feeling a bit better.

Tuesday Sept 11

Though the seas continued to be rough we started the day with high spirits knowing we made it to Georgia and ate significant quantities of bacon.  After a few hours the bacon high wore off it was clear the crew was getting a bit tired of the rambunctious seas and pounding so it was decided to keep heading north but finish the day at anchorage in St Catherine’s sound.  The wind remained between 20-25knts out of NNE where we continued to sail at the tightest angle we could, still getting used to these catamarans, definitely not windward machines.

We lined up the channel just around dusk and would have to navigate the sound at dark, good charts, radar and crew on the bow really help with this.  We dropped anchor in about 10 feet of water and all crashed for the evening.

Wednesday Sept 12

After a short conversation over breakfast it was decided we had some time to spare so why not try to wait out the northerly wind and hang out in Hilton Head for a day or two.

We quickly pulled anchor and began our slog north.  The seas were actually more confused than they were on Tuesday which further relieved us with our new plan.  We motorsailed for the majority of the day and made it to Hilton Head at 4pm.  Found a great little marina, Palmetto Bay, to hang out at for a day or two and enjoyed a great meal ashore where once again a significant quantity of sea creatures were consumed.

Thursday Sept 13

Weather and sea conditions have not changed so we decided to stay put in Palmetto Bay for one more day.  This gave us the chance to do a bit more provisioning, exploring and installation of the remote VHF at the helm (no idea why a highly optioned boat does not come with this crucial piece of $100 equipment).  Cynthia got some nasty blisters wearing her mom’s boat shoes san socks while we went and wandered the island we finished the day with Diana and Cynthia baking some pizzas and Jack getting his steak at the Black Marlin restaurant.   As always interesting folks were found at the bar, didn’t stay out too late as we were shoving off in the morning.

Friday Sept 14

I think I remember hearing about sailing to a schedule is not an ideal way to plan a voyage. . . Well that is a luxury for the folks who are not currently employed.  The weather situation calmed somewhat, but still had that damn northerly wind.  We were not going to seas in dangerous conditions, just not ideal, when we have the luxury of time we would have spent more time at Hilton Head, for now back to sea.  After fueling up we shoved off a bit before 9 am.

After exiting the Tybee Channel and turning north we found choppy seas and proceeded to motor directly in to them to make our way to our final destination, Beaufort NC.  Though we were going directly into the seas and wind things have calmed a bit since Wednesday as were only experiencing light pounding from the bridge deck.  We had both fishing lines out, engines turning at 2200 RPM, making close to 6knts so all in all things not so bad.  Had a beautiful evening with Cynthia becoming quite excited over the bioluminescence, which is pretty cool stuff to watch in the wake.

Saturday Sept 15

This will be our last full day at sea as we are estimating coming into Beaufort tomorrow afternoon.

Jack finished up a fairly calm graveyard watch with a bit of boat traffic.  Not long after sunrise it was determined to raise some canvas and try to get this sailboat sailing again.  We couldn’t quite sail as close to the wind as needed for our course, but one engine turning low RPMs helps make us make pretty good speed.

Around 11am we had 15 to 20 dolphins riding our bow waves for a good 15 minutes it was a pretty cool experience and one I’m sure we’ll repeat on our future travels.  I’m sure seeing them frolicking and squeaking in the sea will brighten anyone’s mood no matter how bad the passage.

Still trying to coax as much forward momentum out of the boat as we can with lightening wind, just before going to both engines we luffed the sails to let Jack and Cynthia take a dip.  Jack made himself useful and scraped some growth off the props and all fun ended when a shark decided to come say ‘hi’, not necessarily a man eater but still unnerving.

Had a great lasagna dinner with a beautiful sunset to finish the day with both engines driving us NNW.

Sunday Sept 16

After a quiet yet lumpy night watch spirits were high as we were about to make or goal of Beaufort NC.  The day was started with a great breakfast due to Jack’s cooking and continued to push engine speed a bit higher with the hope of making landfall with time for dinner and drinks.

At 3:30 pm we made landfall at the Town Creek Marina, just inside the Beaufort Bascule bridge,  to top off our fuel tanks and was granted permission to stay at the fuel dock as long as we wished.  Cool deal, because there are cocktails to be had at the Fish Tales restaurant.  After much celebration and a few Rum Punches and Dark and Stormies it was time to shove off and head up the creek to Jarret Bay Boat Yard.

We arrived an hour before dusk and got some local knowledge from s/v Last Dance.  After cleaning up it was time to head into town for dinner and more celebratory cocktails.  We called a cab who was nice enough to call around to find a restaurant with a kitchen that was still open (it’s easy to forget Sundays in small towns can leave your options a bit slim).  We ended up having a great dinner at the Dockhouse and then wandered over to the BackStreet pub which is a really cool little old tavern.  None of us lasted too long as the cab was called once again as we shared a ride with a two other gentleman who got caught up on the town gossip with the cabbie, fun night!

Monday Sept 17

Frantic, Frantic. . . We needed to get the boat hauled, cleaned and emptied of our things to catch our flights out of Raleigh at 3:45.

The boat was hauled, pressure washed and stacked fairly quickly.  I was hoping to give it a good wash down for it’s long storage,  but barely had time to think.  We got all things put away, locked up and had a conversation w/ the yard manager on things we wanted to get worked on. . . . Time to go!

 

First plan was to get a cab from the boat yard, then to enterprise to rent a car and then drive to Raleigh. . . not enough time to make it by 3:45.

So, ‘Hey cabbie, can you take us to the airport?’

‘Sure, New Bern, no problem’

‘No, Raliegh’

‘Hmm, let me check with my other cab’ . . . ‘sure how about $250’

‘Sounds good, let’s go’

So we took a cab all the way from Beaufort to Raleigh; had plenty of snacks to share and about 30 minutes in everyone was out cold.  The cabbie was a pretty interesting fellow who moved his family from Arlington VA to Beaufort for a more simple life.  He quit his accounting practice and drives cabs to stay busy, says it’s the best decision he’s ever made.  Hmm.

We’ll we made it to the airport with just a few minutes to spare, but our flights were delayed anyway.  We all shared a good linner at the restaurant and bid a farewell.   It was a great  10 days and couldn’t have done it without Cynthia and Jack.  Thanks a lot for the help!

Prepping to Head North

Friday Sept 7

Three of us arrived blurry eyed from the overnight flight from SFO, but ready to get started prepping ourselves and the boat for the journey north.  First on the agenda was to find a place to stay, initially I thought it would be easier to stay in a hotel for a few nights as the boat may be in complete disarray.  Instead we followed Jack’s lead to stay on the boat at a hotel Marina, Jack has a lot of personal knowledge of Fort Lauderdale so we let him make the decision on location and make the arrangements at the Fort Lauderdale Hilton Marina, which was an great choice, much closer to the places we needed to be driving to and from as well as close to cocktails.  We got the boat moved over from the private dock it sat at since June and secured ourselves behind some of the many mega yachts that make our proud ship look a bit small.  The afternoon began the beginning of significant credit card exercise at West Marine.

Saturday Sept 8

Our 4th crew member, Cynthia, arrived in time for our shakedown cruise which also included Jack’s friend Alan.  More eyes the better to find any issues with the boat before we head out to sea.  We spent a good portion of the day enjoying the fresh breeze and putting Ryana through her paces.  No significant issues were found except a few lose shackles that were tightened up.  We returned to the Hilton Marina said farewell to Alan and wandered back to West Marine as well as the grocery for provisioning.  We packed the Escalade to the gills which showed it just wasn’t frivolous upgrade, we needed the space, I’m a bit upset I didn’t get a picture.

The evening was met with lively conversation as we met up with Cynthia’s cousins and Jack’s brother and sister-in-law for dinner at the Raw bar (one of Jack’s old haunts).  After a number of rounds and many individual sea creatures consumed it was back to the boat to get some good rest before our watch schedule would begin.

Lots of Manuals

So here is  a picture of all of our manuals so far, we’ve both read them cover to cover J/K.  So I need to figure out a filing system to easily retrieve as needed but I’m also going to download the PDFs and store on my iPad and likely the wiki.

Work . . .

Time for chores!!! I mentioned a list of things I wanted to get done before leaving, well this list even grew as I awoke a number of times adding things I didn’t want to forget.  Today we’ll spend the day washing and waxing.  The gel coat is nice and shiny and I want it to stay that way, to do so we had to apply UV protection.   I’ve done a bit of research on what type of wax is best to use and got a number of answers so I went with what I know and it’s cheap and easy.  NuFinish . . . the once a year car polish.  It isn’t wax based so the intense heat and sun does not cause it to melt off as carnuba would, next time we’ll try something else maybe Fleetwax 885.

We got the full enclosure up which will be awesome in cooler climates.  I’d like to see if we could get a canvas store to make us some screens to use for keeping out bugs, or maybe we’ll just get a sewing machine?!

Did I mention it’s hot???  It is so hot, no one on the West Coast can ever complain how hot it gets, the sun w/ humidity create oppressive conditions that is just insane.  In these working conditions we managed to wash and wax the entire boat.  I’ll complain some more . . . Did I mention this thing is big??  It’s like waxing two 40ft boats, maybe more when counting how big the bridge deck is.  Well we didn’t buff to a mirror finish, but got enough on that it should protect it for a few months.  On our second day of waxing we only had the morning as our flight was scheduled for 7pm.  Just able to finish and scrub the decks down with a PTEF to protect it from staining.  I also wanted to try out the $1000 outboard stand on the boat, yes it was that much and no we wouldn’t have ordered it ourselves.  One of the few things that went right the first time was lifting the outboard with the spinnaker halyard and getting it on the bracket w/ no fuss.  It worked great and is now securely locked and covered taking a bit of strain off the davits when we’re gone.

On Our Own

So today we decided we need to take her out ourselves, we have sailed 50+ft monohulls before without any difficulty, but for some reason a 23+ foot beam is more intimidating.  Oh plus she is new and ours. . .

We fired up the engines, took time to talk about our dock exit and eventually released the lines.  I was able to spin her around in her own length and point her down the channel, first success!!  As we motored to the first bridge we realized we’d be quite early for the opening as they open every 30 minutes thought at varying intervals and we have 15 minutes to stand by.  It was good practice keeping the boat stationary against the wind and tide, twin engines are great!  After we cleared the first bridge we made it to the second w/ little incident, made request and it went up not long after arriving.

Well on the way to the last bridge before the inlet I got a bit lost.  Yep, with paper and electronic charts I made a wrong turn, mostly because I was following the guy in front of me who also requested clearance to the bridge we were in route to.  Not sure where he was going, but it wasn’t towards the 17th Street bridge.  I opened up those Yanmars and tried to make it for the scheduled opening, but was about 2 minutes short.  The bridge operator saw us coming and just couldn’t block traffic for that long.  More time to practice boat handling!

After waiting 30 minutes the bridge opened and we were off to sail the Atlantic.  We motored out to the last buoy and pointed her up to hoist the main.  After a few catches on the lazy jacks we had it up w/ one reef in which I didn’t think was necessary in 15-20knots of wind, but it made the wife calmer for the time being.  After bearing off we picked up a little speed and unfurled the genoa.  We didn’t make as good speed as we did on Thursday, but spent a lot of time playing with the sail trim and learning when speed fell off as we pointed higher and higher.

After sailing for about 2 hours we decided to come in and try our luck at the fuel dock.  At the time of arrival the current was conflicting with the breeze and I not yet familiar enough w/ the boat to understand which has more power.  I quickly changed my mind on what side we would come to and had to move the fenders.  I got a spot at the end of the floating dock and that was pretty uneventful, but then was told I had to move to accommodate a 120ft motor yacht.  Now with the difficult conditions I had to dock against pilings???  Palms sweaty and a large audience on the deck eating lunch, damn okay.  We released the lines and moved forward, thinking we could nose in, secure the bow line and then back down to bring the stern in.  Well it sorta worked, thought the bow line was not taught so we swung back aways, came back and nudged a piling.  No damage that a magic eraser couldn’t take care of.  Next time we’ll try using a line amidships . . .

So with full tanks we wanted to try out our ground tackle.  A 44lb Delta that will likely become our secondary anchor after I choose something a bit larger.  We made our way over to Lake Sylvia and it gets quite shallow!  Bounced a few times off the bottom, but made it through the channel and found about 10 other cruising boats, mostly catamarans, anchored out.  After setting the anchor we watched a boat filming the use of a water jet pack contraption that was later cited by the cops, entertaining.

Now that it was getting late in the day, we pulled in the hook and made our way back to our dock.  With no current and little wind it was quite simple to gently put her along side of the pilings w/ fenders already placed.  After some moving for and aft we secured her and headed back to our room for the night.

Flying Brand New Sails

Finally got her out and it was awesome!!!  Our broker hired a great young captain to help bring her out for the day, so the four of us motored out of the ICW into the Atlantic.  It was my first time operating twin screws so far apart, it’ll take some time getting used to but talk about maneuverability!

Even with electric winches getting that big square main sail up take some work, also the lazy jacks are quite narrow so I’ll probably be moving them off the mast to the spreaders.  Once the sails were up we beared off and boy she moves great on a reach, but I suppose all catamarans do.  On a close reach we were averaging about 8 knots in about 18 knots of wind.  Sails are only hosted once for the first time, so it was kinda cool to know we were the first to actually sail her.  After executing a few tacks and taking turns at the helm we turned back for the inlet and motored back up the ICW.  The dock space we secured requires 3 bridge openings, once you time the first bridge you can make it to the others be averaging about 6.5 knots down the ICW.

Docking against pilings rather than floating docks makes me quite nervous.  You have to align your fenders just right or you’ll be riding against the piling.  Oh did I mention a Lagoon 400 does not have rub rail?  It looks great now, I just hope my docking skills continue to improve so it continues to look good.  I brought the boat in quite well with instruction from the captain and we spent about 15 minutes figuring how to secure her to the dock.

All in all a long great day, I think we smiled for the rest of the evening

Frustration, but No Rage Fit

The big day, she’ll be sailed for the first time, we’re both really excited.  Well that’s how the day started got to the boat and of course it was still filthy.  As soon as the tech arrived who was to walk us through all the systems I think he got the message that I was absolutely pissed about the condition of the boat.  You spend this much money and you can’t even deliver it clean?????  He got on the phone and they had someone sent out immediately to give her a scrub down.

With the guy outside scrubbing the deck we began to learn about the various systems on Ryana.  Coming from a very simple boat; both in regards to rigging and systems we have a bunch to learn.  We spent a few hours crawling around bilges, opening access panels and reviewing the electrical and plumbing systems.

It was clear how unorganized this company is as they did not even have a captain ready to take us out though it was scheduled well over a month ago so our broker decided he could take us out but wanted to show us the dock we had reserved for Ryana for the next few months.  We arrived at this beautiful Mediterranean style villa w/ horrendous music playing over the pool and an old shirtless man that made me slightly uncomfortable, but once I saw the dock I was pissed.  Two feet of water???  Our broker continued to mumble how they had much larger boats there and it won’t be a problem, sorry unacceptable our new boat will not be sitting on the bottom during low tide.  He took us  to a few others that were also too shallow and one were the pilings have been eroded to toothpicks.  Eventually we found a very secure space behind modest home on a wide canal, the owners are also very nice.

After driving around Fort Lauderdale for 3 hours looking at docks it was too late to go for a sail, try again tomorrow.

Dinghy Ride

We got up and went back to the boat, but no sign of anyone cleaning.  A few folks were there finishing out the outfitting by installing the anchor chain and filling the propane tanks.  We spent the better part of the morning helping them move chain and getting to know the boat systems a bit better.  Did I mention it’s hot here in the summer?  When the afternoon heat subsided we took the dinghy out for a bit of a cruise to get a feel for her.  She planes at about 13mph and tops out about 20; I think we will be able to do a bit of kneeboarding behind it!  The Genesis 340 is a very dry boat taking very little if any water over the bow in a pretty good chop both moving slowly and on plane.  A few things to note is that the plastic hull does flex a bit compared to fiberglass, but it doesn’t seem to be an issue as it’s warranted for 10 years, a good tradeoff for the weight savings.

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Long Flight and Another New Boat

Just landed and got our Dinghy!  I had scheduled 84 Boatworks to deliver our new Genesis 340 and Honda 20 at 10am.  A few minutes after arriving at our boat the delivery guy showed up with it on a trailer to be dropped at the nearest boat ramp.  After getting it in the water a quick pull on the start cord and we were off, that 20hp feels a bit of overkill right now, but will probably come in handy when moving supplies and guests.

The lifting bridles that 84 Boatworks made were completely wrong, much too long and pulling on the fabric of the tubes.  I did get the dinghy secured for our trial on Monday, but they’ll need to come back and we work the lifting situation.

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Oh and the boat is filthy, inside and out.  I was told by our broker it’d be clean and rigged for the Monday hand over so made a call and was assured it would be by Monday.

With a few more hours left in the day I wanted to checkout Sailorman and Bluewater Books.  Sailorman is something that each boating town needs; tons of used equipment, discounted new stuff and just an awesome place to poke around.  Bluewater Books was fairly interesting, but not much different than any other marine book/chart store.