I just learned first hand that Lagoon 400 rudders are not positively buoyant! Good news port rudder shaft and bushings look great!
Escape from Iguana Island
For Pete’s last day we decided to take a dinghy ride over to this small island that is known to be the home of a Rock Iguana colony. We heard all about it from Cam at the Southside marina. He warned us not to chase the iguanas because if they bite you it gets really infected and you may lose a limb. He also told us they were very shy so we may not even see them. Oh well we thought. We’ll head over there and enjoy the scenery at least.
We got to the island and beached the dinghy and climbed around to explore.
After about 10 minutes we were thinking we wouldn’t see any of the iguanas when Pete turned around and practically jumped 10 ft! There was one looking at us. Wow cool we thought. We get to see the iguanas. And then it ran at us! Yikes, I thought they were shy. This is when we noticed 2 others coming at us from different angles. It was almost as though they were surrounding us! Trying to save ourselves we picked up a rock and threw it between us and the nearest iguana. Instead of running away though it ran towards us! Now I am freaking out and thinking I’m about to lose a leg or something. We finally threw a rock over its head and got it to run that way and cleared a path for us to get back to our dinghy.
Thinking the danger was over we played in the water for a little while and walked on the beach.
When we turned around though there they were! On the rocks right at the edge of the beach. Creepy! Ryan took a few pictures and then walked past one. When it spit at him we’d had enough and made our retreat! Crazy Iguanas!!
In the Turks and Caicos – Providenciales
After an easy breezy 3 day sail we got into the Southside Marina in mid morning. Southside Marina would be our home for the next week as we explored Turks & Caicos and just enjoyed hanging out with fellow cruisers. It was really a great place to unwind and connect with real people. South Side Marina is a small independently owned an operated marina with very little flash but it’s charm lies in the people. Bob goes beyond hospitality by offering rides into town, arranging customs and helping in any other way possible.
Bob’s Bar which is open every night 5-9 is a mix of locals, vacationers renting villas and fellow cruisers. We had a great time hearing stories of the folks that helped develop Provo and Ryan really thinks a book needs to be written. Cruisers seem to congregate in the gazebo near the dock and we spent a number of nights chatting well past our bed time.
Ryan had a blast watching Jorge from C’sta Time repair his v-drive while the rest of the guys sat around drinking beers and offering advice. We had a great dinner aboard Ainulindale with our new friends Kirk and Donna and Jorge and Kim. It was just a really nice time hanging out and destressing.
We did get out of the marina too though! Pete was able to spend a few days with us in TCI after the sail so we rented a car and went exploring.
What we found….
Some gorgeous beaches
A conch farm (btw I may never eat conch again after getting a good close look at what they look like before they become conch fritters.
An amazing lunch at Bugaloo with great fish, a great view and music too!
And my future home! I thought this place was awesome!! And as a bonus the house next door is owned by Prince and has a purple driveway! That may be the coolest neighbor ever! 🙂
To the Turks and Caicos
Ryana was full of fuel, water and way too much junk food so we were ready to begin on our second longest leg in our journey yet, about 450nm from Fajardo, Puerto Rico to Provodenciales, Turks and Caicos. All things were in place to look like we were going to have a great journey; winds foretasted to be behind us, mellow seas and a well rested crew.
Day 1
We shoved off from Sun Bay Marina at 0730 and motored for about an hour until our long term course was established. With winds around 160 apparent and remaining fairly steady around 18knts we hoisted the spinnaker and got pulled down wind making about 6knts. All through the day we tried to remain within cell phone range of Puerto Rico as we did not yet have the Turks and Caicos dog import certificate (long story for another post). Diana got through a few times with them making the same promise, ‘You’ll see it in an hour’. Hours past and we eventually had to turn further north and still did not have the document in our hands.

A course change to the north required us to gybe the spinnaker, something we have only done a few times with much lighter wind. Needless to say lessons were learned as Pete and I both ended up with some nice friction burns on our hands. . . Ouch :(. On a brighter note we got a nice sized Black Fin Tuna that was just right for the three of us for dinner, filled us up and had no leftovers. Come to think of it I don’t think we had leftovers the whole time Pete was with us.
We got into a good groove of two hour shifts that seemed to work well for the 3 days the 3 of us were out there. I believe I have mentioned that our helm is a bit exposed so I like another person in the cockpit during night watches. So we each would rotate through 2 hours on, 2 hours on standby (sleeping in the cockpit) and 2 hours off. As dusk began to fall we dropped the spinnaker and pulled out the jib with one engine keeping our speed above 6knts.
Day 2
As the sun came up we had some coffee and breakfast and rehoisted the spinnaker, which was flown for most of the day. Pete is not getting a fair idea of offshore sailing, this is too darn relaxing, though there is a bit more ship traffic than we are used to. More time was spent trying to get that darn import certificate and we finally had success by using up a lot of sat phone minutes, both by calling the T&C Ag Department and then by downloading a large PDF file. This makes us feel better as we were warned that the T&C can be a pain with a dog. The wind began to shift further south and you could really smell either the DR or Haiti, smelled like grass or field fires. Actually reminded me of college where they would burn the wheat fields every fall, strange to smell that 40 miles from nothing in the ocean. Though we tried, no fish today, in fact we lost all the line on one rod; it was big whatever it was. Pasta and sausage for dinner and we motor sailed into the night.
Day 3
An uneventful first part of the day sailing with jib only making good time, though we could see the wind clocking around on us. Late in the afternoon we could clearly see a front we were approaching. We spoke to a boat that was headed east on the other side and said they saw a few mild squalls with winds in the low 30s. Since night was approaching and the wind turned to be dead on our nose we decided to drop sails and motor directly to weather for the night. This made me feel a bit better as Pete needed to be uncomfortable for part of the trip! Well it didn’t get too bad, mild chop and winds 28-33 with a few gusts poking past 40. Things simmered down later in the night and were fairly calm by morning.
Day 4
Everyone was in good spirits as we’d be making landfall before noon and it wasn’t long until we got on the “banks” This is our first experience sailing on “banks”; where the depth is between 2 – 20 feet. Obviously we can’t sail in 2 feet of water, but with the water so clear and lack of any real navigational aids you just have to become good at reading the different shades of blue in the water to make sure you don’t run aground. I checked, rechecked and asked the marina owner to check that my waypoints were right and we slowly and carefully made our way through the coral heads.
Pete and Diana were on the bows providing lookout, not so different than she and Brett did in Maine with those damn lobster traps. Initially Diana was calling out every dark spot, but since we were still in 15-20 feet of water those didn’t pose much threat. The last 2 miles into the marina were a bit more scary. Our GPS track looks like a zig zag up to the marina channel, which was just about 5 feet when we came in at low tide; totally fine had a whole 6 inches left! We slid up to the fuel dock unnoticed and immediately like our new home for the week, the South Side Marina run by Bob.
Pete on a Beach
Bahamas!
El Yunque
Everyone told us we should see the rainforest El Yunque on Puerto Rico, so we did. It was a lot less dense than the rainforest on Dominica and you could hear the birds chirping. Dominica’s rainforest was very dark, very damp and very quiet. By contrast El Yunque was bright with sunlight and loud, and it didn’t rain a drop while we were there. The temperature did get cooler though… 73 degrees!
We first did a small hike through the rainforest….
And ended up at a waterfall.
After that we went to the Yokahu tower which has views over the forest and down to the ocean.
Lastly we stopped at another waterfall and took in the views.
Dog Day Afternoon
Now tweeting from the sat phone
Old San Juan
I just saw an article about the 20 most charming towns and Old San Juan made the list. After having visited there I can definitely see why! There are brightly colored buildings and cobblestone streets and two huge forts guarding each end of the town. It was very picturesque.
Our friend Pete had flown in to help us move the boat from Puerto Rico to Turks & Caicos so when he got in we headed over to check out Old San Juan. First order of business was lunch! I tried this dish called Mofongo for the first time and it was delicious. Mofongo is mashed green plantains that I had with grilled chicken. YUM! So good. Ryan had his lunch pork chop supersized but he managed to finish it all!
The buildings in Old San Juan are really colorful and we had a great time walking around taking in the sights.
Our visit to the Fort was fun too. There were so many levels to go and explore and the views from the Fort were beautiful.
And, when we got back to our car after a fun day, there was a lizard on the windshield!!





























































































